Fancy Food Show satisfies specialty appetites

By Ann Haigh
FOR THE TRIBUNE-REVIEW
Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Call it a challenge: The 2008 Summer Fancy Food Show, sponsored by the National Association of the Specialty Food Trade.

The blockbuster event attracts more than 25,000 visitors. For three days, they trawl the aisles of Manhattan's Jacob Javits Convention Center, tasting free samples of 160,000 food products, from more than 2,500 exhibitors, representing 77 countries.

Whew!

The Natural and Organic Pavilion, new last year, this year spilled over to an additional floor in the massive exhibition space. The categories for the sofi's -- specialty outstanding food innovation -- climbed to 32, awarding silver and gold to everything from Outstanding Frozen Savory and Outstanding Pasta Sauce to Outstanding Pet Product (Mega Bite Peanut Treat, from Big Bark Bakery).

An ebullient circus ambiance flourishes in eye-grabbers such as living statues, costumed sample-dispensers and ta-da! demos. Curtis Mozie, the Miracle Fruit Man, drew wows from the crowd when he showed how consuming red "magic berries" tricked the taste buds into tasting sweetness in sour and bitter foods such as lemons and olives.

Some items reached over-the-top: Jelly Belly's BeanBoozled Jelly Beans offers 10 colored, flavor-shocking pairs of beans. Black might be licorice or "skunk spray," yellow -- ear wax or buttered popcorn."

Although it took top confection, Bissinger's, a fine confectioner, should have done better than Blueberry Acai Gummy Pandas.

And do we need a Kosher "Bacon" Salt that makes everything taste like bacon? Trend-spotting is, of course, part of the Fancy Food Show game plan, so ponder these:

Fresh, local, organic, natural, kosher and gluten-free products march on.
Probiotics -- good bacteria -- claim attention in more than yogurts, especially in baby foods, which now should be substantially organic.
Bold flavors and crunchier textures appeal to aging taste buds.
High nutrient/high anti-oxidant Superfruits -- acai, pomegranates, goji berries, noni and now yumberries -- go mainstream.
The flood of bottled mineral waters recedes to be replaced by functional water (with added vitamins); flavored waters (with natural or no-cal sweeteners -- cane sugar, agave, stevia); exotic fruit juices; and premium iced teas.
"Clean" labels give consumers ingredients they can pronounce and nutritional information they can understand.
High-end chocolate still reigns, frequently touting single origin and exotic spices.
Herbs -- especially rosemary, lavender and mint -- flavor everything from sweets and snacks to jams and popcorn.
An infinite production of superb cheeses supplies this Earth. Ditto great oils.
Ethnic foods multiply. Look to Africa and India.
Convenience is mandatory.
Packaging and preparation are scrutinized from a "green" perspective. Next-up could be labeling for Certified Carbon Neutral. Ingenuity and quality remain high across the board, but here are some favorites:

Gingernize: Inspired by their native West African traditions, Felix and Salima Segbefia brought an all-natural family recipe to market as a ginger juice-based beverage in nine healthful, energizing and delicious flavors. The company's Ginger Lemonade Rush won Outstanding Cold Beverage, but the whole line is a revelation.

Frutzzo: The company that introduced acai to America adds more organic, high-anti-oxidant, exotic fruit juices to its bottled repertoire. The latest batch delivers Asian sweet/tart yumberry -- both alone and in tantalizing combinations with pomegranate and blueberry.

Juniper Green Organic Gin: Satiny and herbaceous, this dry, London-style spirit is unfiltered and certified organic.

Some special teas: Adagio Silver Needle Gourmet Tea Bags, Jasmine Dragon Pearl Green Tea, Sencha Shot and Sip for the Cure.

Robert Lambert: This artisanal producer of amazing marmalades, preserves, sauces and syrups claims a gold sofi for voluptuous Dark Cherries Preserved in Merlot Syrup.

Coach Farm debuts a luxurious Triple Cream Goat cheese; Rogue Creamery unveils exceptional Oregon Blue cheese; and Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. merits distinction winning Outstanding Product Line.

34-degrees: Thin, ethereal crispbreads -- available in four flavors, including rosemary -- make light snacks or perfect mates to cheese.

Minnie Beasley's Almond Lace: This Best Cookie producer's motto is "Taste the Decadence."

Mary's Gone Crackers was judged Best Cracker. The family-run bakery makes unique, gluten-free, organic, crunchy and addictive crackers in five flavors.

Organic Apple and Rosemary Preserve and Onion Confit with Fennel transform the ordinary into something spectacular. Wholemato, organic agave ketchup, spices up America's favorite condiment.

McSweet Pickles uses Old World techniques, attracting a cult following for its fine line of vegetables -- especially cocktail onions, dilly beans and pickled garlic.

Marina Colonna Olive Oils: On her 200-year-old family estate in Molise, Italy, Princess Marina produces heart-stirring extra virgin olive oils -- including organic, D.O.P. varietals, citrus-infused and creatively spiced.

Fra' Mani Handcrafted Salumi: Zealous chef Paul Bertolli is royalty in the realm of traditional Italian cooked salumi, fresh sausages and dry salami -- available online.

Alexian produces terrines and such elegant pates as Pheasant and Rosemary. More whimsical, Patchwork Pates creates adventurous concoctions -- Welsh Dragons, with venison liver and chili; chicken liver, with elderflower and elderflower vodka; cheese pate, with Stilton and Guinness.

Blackwell's Organic: Soy gelatos and fruit sorbettos, hand-made in small batches, use top quality certified organic and free-trade ingredients. With no preservatives, additives and extracts, they're gluten-free, lactose-free, cholesterol-free and vegan. And they taste just fabulous! The Raspberry Sorbetto won Outstanding USDA-approved Organic Product.

Candy is dandy. Winning Outstanding Chocolate, Brandini Toffee is the scrumptious brainchild of two California students, both high school juniors. Taking the silver, with Almond Butter Crunch, is long-established Stephany's Chocolates.

One of 10 finalists selected from a field of 600 for Best New Product, Das Carmelini gets raves for its Assorted Box of French salted caramels with 4-ounces each of popular flavors -- lavender, chocolate, toasted walnuts and candied ginger and pistachio.

To see the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review article click here.

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